I departed the motel at 10am and rode downtown to the Post Office to send the laptop to Bar Harbor and some more unwanted equipment home. Today was the day I had to make my own route to Middlebury, VT because the ferry service had closed a few days earlier for the season. As I headed out of town I stopped at a natural foods store and purchased some organic raisins and cashew butter. The lady at the store generously accepted the cash I had in my wallet (less than the price of the items) as she had no facility to process credit cards. The hills to the west were just beyond their peak colors and I took a few photos.
I was soon at Crown Point and then crossed the bridge over Lake Champlain into Vermont. Traffic was light as I followed route 125 to Middlebury. I ate lunch outside a gas station and talked to many people about my trip as they entered the convenience store.
I reached Middlebury just before 3pm. It was a busy little town with many students walking around the town. It was here that I again followed the Adventure Cycling maps. The route took me through Ripton and at 6:20pm I arrived at Bread Loaf, a summer school for writers. I studied the map of trails at a rest area and decided to stay along a cross-country skiing trail not far from where I was. I had a very nice a peaceful sleep.
Wednesday October 31st
I packed up the bike then filtered some water from a stream before departing at 10:40am. Just after I reached the top of Bread Loaf mountain I was cruising down the hill into Hancock beside Robbins Brook. On the other side of Hancock I met Robert who was riding back home on a day trip. We had a nice conversation about bike touring as we rode towards Rochester. We stopped at the bicycle store and talked to the owner. I excused myself and went to the bank and the supermarket. Then I returned to the bike store with some money to pay for the puncture repair kit. I then went to the laundromat and was able to launder some clothes, change in to the clean clothes then launder the ones I was wearing. This took some time and after another conversation with Robert and eating lunch, I departed at 3:21pm.
As I was riding through Sharon just before it was dark, some kids were walking along the street with their parents going from house to house doing “trick-or-treat”. One kid asked me what I was supposed to be doing. I didn't answer as I didn't have time to explain. Instead one of the parents said hello and I said hello back. I hope the parent explained to the young child later what I was doing. Or maybe the child forgot about me! I was hoping to get further than Sharon but it was hilly and I decided to find a spot to camp nearby. After a number of cars passed me and it was silent again, I could hear a stream nearby. I pulled off the road and walked down an embankment to a stream. It was a perfect spot to put up the tent and not be seen from the road. Again I was soothed to sleep by the sound of water flowing over rocks.
Thursday November 1st
All Saints Day!
I departed at 9am and passed through South Strafford and stopped at East Thetford for a hot chocolate drink. I crossed over the Connecticut River into New Hampshire near Lyme. As I was passing through Orford it started to rain. It only lasted 30 minutes. I had lunch in Piermont and after I resumed riding the sun came out. I rode through North Haverhill and reached Lincoln at 7pm. I inquired at few motels and found the going rate to be $110 for a room. That was beyond my budget limit so I decided to continue. Just out of Lincoln the State Forest begins. It was not long before I found a nice tent site by the Hancock River. I was in bear country again so I decided to cook away from the tent. I was not disturbed during the night.
Friday November 2nd
Since I wasn't in a designated camping site, I packed up the bike before daylight and cooked my breakfast at a rest area beside the river. A guy in a green forestry truck passed by me but didn't stop. I had been thinking of not taking a day off the next day to make up time as I'm due back at work on November 6th.
I departed at 9:46am on the Kancamagus highway towards the pass. The road was nicely graded and I steadily pedaled towards the pass. I reached the pass at 12:30pm and stopped at a few rest areas to look at the information boards and the views. By 2:13pm I reached Conway. I decided to stay the night in Conway and I spent some time at the library catching up on emails and searching for accommodation in Conway. I called the youth hostel at 5pm to see if a room was available. The lady suggested I come and check the place out. I found it to be very nice with a kitchen and laundry very close to my room. I couldn't bring the bike inside so it sat in the drive outside my room. It was bit noisy with people arriving late at night so I slept with earplugs.
Saturday November 3rd
After departing at 8:30am I reached Maine at 9:15am. Now I was in the final state of the trip and I felt I was getting close to finishing.
It was a cold day. I rode through Lovell, Sweden, and South Waterford. At 12:30pm in Waterford I stopped at Springers General Store for 2 grilled cheese sandwiches and a cup of hot chocolate. The store had fired up their stove for the first time that day and the store was toasty warm. I was able to get my feet warm again and that felt good. After 45 minutes lingering in the warm environment, I departed.
I passed through East Waterford and Norway. I stopped in Paris to buy supplies from a food co-op store. At 2:30pm it started to rain. It was still raining when I reached Turner at 6:30pm. My waterproof shell gloves were leaking even after I sprayed them with a coat of proofing. They were probably leaking from the stitching seams. I turned on to route 4 as I saw a gas station. When I was out of the rain in the convenience store I looked at the Adventure Cycling map for somewhere to stay. I called Nezinscot Farm and the lady offered me a comfortable couch to sleep on. I was very happy to arrive at the farm and find such nice welcoming people. I quickly felt at home there. I was able to put all of my wet gear in the drying room, have a shower, and cook a meal. I was offered a piece of apple pie and I didn't have to think twice before saying yes! The area where I was staying was the farm store and family living area. Everything seemed integrated and well thought out. The couch was comfortable and I slept well. I got an extra hour of sleep as daylight saving was due to “fall back” that evening.
I passed through East Waterford and Norway. I stopped in Paris to buy supplies from a food co-op store. At 2:30pm it started to rain. It was still raining when I reached Turner at 6:30pm. My waterproof shell gloves were leaking even after I sprayed them with a coat of proofing. They were probably leaking from the stitching seams. I turned on to route 4 as I saw a gas station. When I was out of the rain in the convenience store I looked at the Adventure Cycling map for somewhere to stay. I called Nezinscot Farm and the lady offered me a comfortable couch to sleep on. I was very happy to arrive at the farm and find such nice welcoming people. I quickly felt at home there. I was able to put all of my wet gear in the drying room, have a shower, and cook a meal. I was offered a piece of apple pie and I didn't have to think twice before saying yes! The area where I was staying was the farm store and family living area. Everything seemed integrated and well thought out. The couch was comfortable and I slept well. I got an extra hour of sleep as daylight saving was due to “fall back” that evening.
60 miles traveled today.
Sunday November 4th
I didn't want to leave the farm but the end of the ride was near so I departed at 8am. Weather was fine and cool. I passed through Litchfield Corner and Richmond. At Dresden I stopped for 2 grilled cheese sandwiches and resumed at 1pm. My journey took me through Newcastle, Waldoboro and West Rockport. I stopped at a gas station for a hot chocolate and called a motel in Rockport for a room. I arrived there at 6:16pm.
82 miles traveled today.
Monday November 5th
My final day on the road had arrived. I estimated it to be 90 miles to Bar Harbor taking the quiet roads on the Adventure Cycling map. I decided to take the busy route 1 and departed at 6:40am. Just out of Rockport I got my first glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean. At 8:30am in Northport I stopped at Moran's Hideaway Diner eating pancakes and tea for breakfast. I reached Bucksport at 11:30am. I bought a new set of earphones for my MP3 player and checked emails at the library. I ate lunch outside the library then departed at 12:18pm. In Ellsworth I stopped at a natural foods store for a hot chocolate and cookie. I reached Bar Harbor at 5pm. The Post Office closed at 4:30pm so I couldn't pick up the laptop computer. I ate dinner at the Thirsty Whale and called many motels to find most of them had closed. After 8 calls I found a room at Atlantic Oakes motel by the ferry terminal. It was dark and I wanted a photo dipping the wheels in the Atlantic Ocean. That would have to wait until the next morning.
Tuesday November 6th
After breakfast I packed the bike in the room once the laundry was done and departed for the pier in the rain at 10am. I dipped the wheels in the ocean which signified the end of the trip.
I rode to the Post Office, picked up the laptop computer and rode to the bike store. I stripped the bike of everything I was going to take with me in the car then called a taxi to take me to the airport. I had been thinking of how I was going to get back home from Bar Harbor for half of the trip. I decided that it was too much work to box up the bike and take a bus and a train back home.
A pickup truck rented from Enterprise was my next idea. After trying to contact the agency at Bar Harbor airport in Trenton I found out that the only company renting cars this late in the season was Hertz. Hertz didn't rent pickup trucks.
Okay, what about a U-Haul truck? Too expensive!
Okay, the last idea was to get the local bike store to box up and send the bike back home. That freed me from having to rent a large vehicle to hold the bike. I was able to pick up a Mazda 6 for the price of a Ford Focus. Just after midday I packed the car and started on the trip home. Ever since high school days I was intrigued with a song we used to sing called “Riding Down from Bangor”. Since I was so close to Bangor I decided to drive there before heading south. It looked just like any other city – maybe there were woods to do hunting in somewhere nearby. The song goes “Riding down from Bangor on an eastern train after weeks of hunting in the woods of Maine....”
I stopped at a supermarket and bought enough food for 2 meals. I ate lunch in the car then followed I95 south with a small detour on I125 to Freeport to visit the LL Bean Bike, Boat, and Ski store for a hour. Then it was back on I125 to I95 and south through the outskirts of Boston in Massachusetts, then on I90 to I84. I then followed I84 all the way through Connecticut to Middletown in New York. From there it was 40 minutes on route 17 to where I live in Hurleyville. I arrived at 10:45pm. Thoughts about the trip The trip was a complete success. I traveled across the US within 3 months being in nature for most of the time and thinking about what I was about to do for the rest of my life. I now realize that the “world is my oyster” and I can do anything I want to. Now that I'm back at work I've decided to stay for a while until I get clear about the next step in my life.
I stopped at a supermarket and bought enough food for 2 meals. I ate lunch in the car then followed I95 south with a small detour on I125 to Freeport to visit the LL Bean Bike, Boat, and Ski store for a hour. Then it was back on I125 to I95 and south through the outskirts of Boston in Massachusetts, then on I90 to I84. I then followed I84 all the way through Connecticut to Middletown in New York. From there it was 40 minutes on route 17 to where I live in Hurleyville. I arrived at 10:45pm. Thoughts about the trip The trip was a complete success. I traveled across the US within 3 months being in nature for most of the time and thinking about what I was about to do for the rest of my life. I now realize that the “world is my oyster” and I can do anything I want to. Now that I'm back at work I've decided to stay for a while until I get clear about the next step in my life.
And I have a wee scar above my right eye as a memento of the trip!
After a little trim...
After a little trim...
Food
Being a vegetarian did not create a problem for me. I could find enough food to eat along the way. In the US there are plenty of places to buy a good variety of food. My favorite places were the food co-ops and natural food stores I found along the way. Next time when traveling in the US I'll compile a list of these stores making it easier to find them. I'll also spend more time dehydrating food at home before a trip.
Equipment
One thing kept resounding in my head – on my next trip (wherever that is) I need to think about backup systems for my bike and camping equipment in case it fails. Possibly I will have spares boxed up at home ready to be sent to wherever I am at a moment's notice. Or if it is light enough, carry a spare with me.
The Marmot Firstlight 2 tent performed well and kept me dry on the wet days.
My Big Agnes insulated mattress worked well but required 40 lung-fulls of air to inflate. And during the trip it started to leak and was half-inflated by the time I woke up. I found it difficult to find the leak even after dipping it in water and looking for the bubbles. I'm certain I'll buy a new self-inflating Thermarest mattress for my next trip.
Some nights my 20 degree MEC sleeping bag was not warm enough. After buying a 6' by 6' piece of fleece for a blanket I was able to cope with the frosty nights okay. The fleece blanket was bulky. A warmer sleeping bag could be purchased for my next fall trip.
I bought a Thermarest pillow for the trip and I'm glad I did! It rolled up to a small size and was light.
My Peak1 Apex II multi-fuel stove failed during the trip. Three of the five legs broke off making it difficult to support a pot of water. This was the 3rd trip I had used this stove. It performed well for me. I was able to make a tripod out of tree branches and rope until I could buy a replacement. I really liked its ability to simmer.
The MSR Whisperlite Internationale multi-fuel stove performed well for the rest of my trip. I wished I had brought along my flame spreader – this would have helped prevent food burning in my cookware. This stove is difficult to simmer.
Even though a bike mechanic checked the bike before I departed, the rim on the rear wheel failed (possibly from brake wear.) I was lucky to be in a city with a bike store when the wheel failed. The new wheel worked well and even though 2 spokes broke I was still able to keep the wheel aligned until the spokes were replaced. I think a few spare spokes and the rear cassette removal tools will be in my tool kit for the next big trip.
I replaced the chain and rear cassette before the trip and they performed well. The 4th cog was slipping a bit towards the end of the trip.
The Kool-Stop brake pads worked well.
I broke 2 rear derailleur cables. A spare cable could have shortened the delays I experienced. I'll definitely carry a set of spare cables with me for the next trip.
The Shimano Deore XT rear derailleur failed twice during the trip. It is nice and light for people that want to ride fast. On a touring recumbent bike something more durable is needed. The heavier (and cheaper) steel Shimano Acera derailleur performed well for the rest of the trip.
I wore multiple layered clothing for the trip. On cold days my merino wool sleeveless Ibex under shirt worked well. I had a few pairs of spandex cycling shorts with leg warmers, arm warmers, campmor travel cargo pants, campmor travel shirts, wicking underwear, and my 66 Degrees North Iceland fleece jacket.
On warm days I wore my Exxus sandals and Crank Brothers Egg Beater clipless pedals.
For wet days I had a Marmot Preclip jacket, We Got Gear pants, 3 layers of gloves, wool socks, waterproof boots, nashbar platform pedals, headsweats helmet liner, and an Illuminite helmet cover.
My Giro Mojave helmet has seen better days and is due for retirement. I hesitate to guess what injury I would have had if I wasn't wearing the helmet during my accident. A small scar is a good reminder to me to keep wearing a helmet when riding.
The Take A Look mirror performed well and I;d never ride on busy roads without a mirror.
My Support Team
Any trip is easier with a support team. Since I was riding by myself self-contained and with no support vehicle, many people offered me help out of the generosity of their hearts.
I want to acknowledge the following people who through offering a bed, food, or a few kind words helped me on my way:
Guys on Phred Touring list for suggesting route from Seattle to Anacortes.
Jim in Seattle – picking me up from the airport, accommodations for a few days, driving a friends truck to pick up the boxed bike, some sightseeing, and for sending some of my gear home and for disposing the bike boxes.
Chet in Port Townsend, WA – for the encouraging talk about bike touring.
Jesse in Anacortes, WA - letting me look around Anacortes Telescope store and the chocolate.
My friend back home who wants to remain anonymous for sending the energy bars to Post Offices along the way.
Friends Ken, Mary, and David for encouraging words.
My Peak1 Apex II multi-fuel stove failed during the trip. Three of the five legs broke off making it difficult to support a pot of water. This was the 3rd trip I had used this stove. It performed well for me. I was able to make a tripod out of tree branches and rope until I could buy a replacement. I really liked its ability to simmer.
The MSR Whisperlite Internationale multi-fuel stove performed well for the rest of my trip. I wished I had brought along my flame spreader – this would have helped prevent food burning in my cookware. This stove is difficult to simmer.
Even though a bike mechanic checked the bike before I departed, the rim on the rear wheel failed (possibly from brake wear.) I was lucky to be in a city with a bike store when the wheel failed. The new wheel worked well and even though 2 spokes broke I was still able to keep the wheel aligned until the spokes were replaced. I think a few spare spokes and the rear cassette removal tools will be in my tool kit for the next big trip.
I replaced the chain and rear cassette before the trip and they performed well. The 4th cog was slipping a bit towards the end of the trip.
The Kool-Stop brake pads worked well.
I broke 2 rear derailleur cables. A spare cable could have shortened the delays I experienced. I'll definitely carry a set of spare cables with me for the next trip.
The Shimano Deore XT rear derailleur failed twice during the trip. It is nice and light for people that want to ride fast. On a touring recumbent bike something more durable is needed. The heavier (and cheaper) steel Shimano Acera derailleur performed well for the rest of the trip.
I wore multiple layered clothing for the trip. On cold days my merino wool sleeveless Ibex under shirt worked well. I had a few pairs of spandex cycling shorts with leg warmers, arm warmers, campmor travel cargo pants, campmor travel shirts, wicking underwear, and my 66 Degrees North Iceland fleece jacket.
On warm days I wore my Exxus sandals and Crank Brothers Egg Beater clipless pedals.
For wet days I had a Marmot Preclip jacket, We Got Gear pants, 3 layers of gloves, wool socks, waterproof boots, nashbar platform pedals, headsweats helmet liner, and an Illuminite helmet cover.
My Giro Mojave helmet has seen better days and is due for retirement. I hesitate to guess what injury I would have had if I wasn't wearing the helmet during my accident. A small scar is a good reminder to me to keep wearing a helmet when riding.
The Take A Look mirror performed well and I;d never ride on busy roads without a mirror.
My Support Team
Any trip is easier with a support team. Since I was riding by myself self-contained and with no support vehicle, many people offered me help out of the generosity of their hearts.
I want to acknowledge the following people who through offering a bed, food, or a few kind words helped me on my way:
Guys on Phred Touring list for suggesting route from Seattle to Anacortes.
Jim in Seattle – picking me up from the airport, accommodations for a few days, driving a friends truck to pick up the boxed bike, some sightseeing, and for sending some of my gear home and for disposing the bike boxes.
Chet in Port Townsend, WA – for the encouraging talk about bike touring.
Jesse in Anacortes, WA - letting me look around Anacortes Telescope store and the chocolate.
My friend back home who wants to remain anonymous for sending the energy bars to Post Offices along the way.
Friends Ken, Mary, and David for encouraging words.
Ruchir, Bindu, and Krishna who stood in for me while I was away from where I do my voluntary work.
Ken from Arizona – stopped me on road to Rainy Pass, WA for a talk on bike touring and recumbents.
Janice & Gary on bike trip – nice talk about bike touring, and riding together for a few miles.
Chris on bike trip east to west – nice talk about bike touring.
Cyclists at Libby Dam - taking interest in my bike ride.
Mike, Chuck and Jamie near Eureka, MT – nice talk about bike touring.
Scott in Grand Rapids, MN - taking interest in my bike ride.
Floyd outside Columbia Falls, MT – nice talk about bike touring.
Ralph and Pat on bike trip to South America near Glacier – nice talk about bike touring.
Supervisor at Cambridge Fairgrounds Campground - waiving the tent fee.
Ken and Sue on bike ride to Florida – nice talks about bike touring, riding together for a few days, and sharing a few meals.
Mick in Williston, ND – accommodations for a night, use of kitchen and laundry, ride to Roosevelt National Park, treating me to meals.
Steve in Minot, ND – treating me to a meal, ride to bike store, nice conversation.
Matt on bike trip east to west - nice talk about bike touring.
James and Susan in Fargo, ND – accommodations for a night, use of kitchen, shower, and laundry.
Sam at Lake Itasca Bike Rental, MN – replacing my bike spoke for a minimal fee.
Phil in Wabasha, MN – warm showers accommodations for a night, use of kitchen and laundry.
Bob & Larisa in Winona, MN - suggesting bike routes in Wisconsin.
Lea in Winona, MN - accommodations for a few days, food, and the good discussions and suggestions.
Staff at Bluff County Coop Natural Foods in Winona, MN – allowing me to fill my herb capsules in a warm place.
Dennis in Guttenberg, IA – stopping to talk about bike touring.
Lady in Luxemburg, IA – giving me directions to the city park.
Sherriff in Orion, IL – suggesting a more secluded city park to camp.
Rusty, truck driver near Henry, IL – bringing First Aid materials to clean up face after accident.
Dr Faber in Henry, IL – stitching the cut above my right eye.
Jack, Mayor in Iroquois, IL – accommodations in park office for the night.
Warren, Community Council in Monroeville, IN - accommodations in community hall for 2 nights, use of shower, laundry, and kitchen.
Dr Giant in Monroeville, IN – taking out the stitches.
Bike mechanic in Bowling Green, OH – repairing the broken spoke, great talk about bike touring and recumbent bikes.
Mike near Avery, OH – recommending detour around road with bridge under repair.
Guy at camping ground in Fort Erie, ON, Canada – letting me stay in closed camp ground, giving me some water.
Richard in Niagara Falls, ON, Canada – showing me the way to Whirlpool Bridge, nice fast ride on the way there.
Ed, cyclist on Erie Canal near Macedon, NY – suggesting I eat at Muddy Waters cafe in Palmyra.
Two guys that stopped to help me in the dark on my way to Fair Haven State Campground, NY.
Families in cafe at Osceola, NY – words of encouragement on a cold and wet day.
Lady at natural foods store in Ticonderoga, NY – accepting the money I had for some supplies.
Robert, cyclist near Rochester, VT – riding with me and nice discussion about bike touring.
Family at Nezinscot Farm, ME – making me feel part of their family during my overnight stay.
All the librarians at libraries across the country that allowed me access to the internet.
Thank you everyone!
Warren, Community Council in Monroeville, IN - accommodations in community hall for 2 nights, use of shower, laundry, and kitchen.
Dr Giant in Monroeville, IN – taking out the stitches.
Bike mechanic in Bowling Green, OH – repairing the broken spoke, great talk about bike touring and recumbent bikes.
Mike near Avery, OH – recommending detour around road with bridge under repair.
Guy at camping ground in Fort Erie, ON, Canada – letting me stay in closed camp ground, giving me some water.
Richard in Niagara Falls, ON, Canada – showing me the way to Whirlpool Bridge, nice fast ride on the way there.
Ed, cyclist on Erie Canal near Macedon, NY – suggesting I eat at Muddy Waters cafe in Palmyra.
Two guys that stopped to help me in the dark on my way to Fair Haven State Campground, NY.
Families in cafe at Osceola, NY – words of encouragement on a cold and wet day.
Lady at natural foods store in Ticonderoga, NY – accepting the money I had for some supplies.
Robert, cyclist near Rochester, VT – riding with me and nice discussion about bike touring.
Family at Nezinscot Farm, ME – making me feel part of their family during my overnight stay.
All the librarians at libraries across the country that allowed me access to the internet.
Thank you everyone!
